A Cheat Sheet to the Spring/Summer 2020 Runway Trends
Before we watch them trickle to the streets and eventually to the ‘gram.
The late ‘60s-via-the-’70s
Paco Rabanne SS ’20The era that gave us the miniskirt and swirling florals on everything from kaftans to bell-bottom flares, the ‘60s and ‘70s are back in all their sepia-tinted glory. Taking a walk down the hippy trail was Celine’s Hedi Slimane who brought back a certain Jimmy Hendricks rock ‘n’ roll vibe to waistcoats and washed jeans. While Paco Rabanne’s flower sprigged prints were a fitting tribute to the flower child in all of us.
A short story
It’s a simple correlation really: the hotter the weather, the higher the hemlines. Designers have found a quick fix to soaring mercury levels: shorts in all iterations. Bermuda or micro bum shorts, it’s a season of hitched hemlines. We’re taking our cue from Gigi Hadid, who slipped into Chanel itty bitty black shorts, and the Saint Laurent show where sequins added a party spin to the summer silhouette.
Craft class
A far cry from your grandmother’s favourite pastime, crochet has got the glow up it deserves. Revivalist in his own right Daniel Lee of Bottega Veneta showed a glitzy black crochet midi complete with artfully placed all-over cuts all. While OG crochet connoisseur, Missoni continued its longtime love affair with the fabric where the collection was almost entirely dedicated to the yarn — from cobalt blue pants to chevron sheers.
A spring print Miranda Priestly would approve of
What was once confined to itsy bitsy yellow bikinis, polka dots are the comeback Queen of Spring/Summer 2020. Balmain gave the ‘50s ladylike staple two variations. A classic rendition speckled on flouncy skirts, and the other a more modern approach seen on pleated dresses and mesh panelling. The season’s dream collaboration between prints charming Dries Van Noten and ‘80s fantasy-maker Christian Lacroix couldn’t escape the allure of the pattern. Think exaggerated dotted sleeves and even a dotty handbag. All the designers paying tribute to the girly-girl’s detail has us thinking – is it finally time to bid au revoir to florals for spring?
License to frill
Big Frill Energy, doily-esque lace and ethereal whites – summer’s mood is sanguine for sure. Frothy tulle and ruffles were everywhere, but not in the quintessential way you’d imagine. Far from frilly frocks, the detailing came on tweed twin-sets at Chanel, enveloping black anti-fit gowns are Balenciaga and on bib-like collars at Valentino.
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